Friday, March 5, 2010

Another Belgian Classic: Saison Dupont

Earlier this week, upon finding out that I got in to one of my graduate schools, I popped open a bottle of Saison Dupont to celebrate a little bit.


Saison Dupont
6.5% ABV, unfiltered, bottle conditioned, bottled in 2009

Saison is a classic Belgian style, also known as the farmhouse ale (or biere de garde in France). Tradiationally these beers would be brewed on farms in the winter and stored until the summer, when the farm workers would drink them as a thirst quencher after a long, hot day of work.

Therefore, it's not surprising that these are thought of as like a Belgian "lawnmower" beer. However, my research on saisons has also set me up to expect a delicious complex beer. My idea of lawnmower beer is beer that comes about as close to water as possible, the American Adjunct Lagers (Bud, Miller, Coors). So I'm not really sure what to expect.

Firstly, this was a green 750 ml bottle with a cork and caging to prevent the cork from flying off; necessary because this is bottle conditioned. The cork gave a nice satisfying pop as it came off (much like opening a bottle of Champagne).

Upon opening and pouring, I started to get a sour, slightly funky aroma with fruit ester notes and some sharpness not unlike that in a lager. The beer was a very light amber color and had experienced chill haze, which made it almost look like a wheat beer.

The initial mouthfeel was of good carbonation, and I get some sharp yeast and some musty flavors. There is a slight bitterness at the back that I suspect is from dry hopping, though none of the vibrant hops flavors (pine, grapefruit, grass) are present. The sharpness as well as the excellent balance and integrated flavor makes this one actually have some things in common with a German lager, but with much more complexity in its yeast and earthy flavor notes.

This beer was indeed refreshing and could perhaps be used as a thirst quencher, but it has nothing in common with "lawnmower beer" beyond that. It is well executed, complex and subtle, and very delicious. However, I would eagerly accept a bottle after a bit of lawn work.

As I drank this I was eating a bowl of spicy, homemade chili. This beer's earthy flavors make it pair very nice with the savory meat and beans of the chili, and it's sharpness and light bitterness accentuates the acidity of the tomatoes and the spiciness. I think this complex beer is made for food, and would pair very well with many dishes.

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